According to Mayor Sam Adams, Portland is the convergence of style and sustainability. Portland Fashion Week is structured to maximize sustainability: it is the world’s only comprehensively green and carbon-neutral production of a fashion week. This year Fashion Week was headquartered at the Vigor Industrial Shipyard on Swan Island, a location quite removed from the city center. Runway shows are produced in a cluster; there is one start time, and the designers show consecutively without interruption. Additionally, designers share all models, make up artists, and hair stylists. Portland Fashion Week showcases the creative edge that makes the Pacific Northwest extraordinary, but executive producers Prasenjit Tito Chowdhury and Christopher Cone do not succeed in elevating the city and its designers to a national audience. After speaking to multiple designers backstage, I believe that the current format is to the detriment of their artistic livelihood. By sharing models, hair, make up and the runway, designers are deprived of prime opportunities to differentiate themselves from the competition. Often, within the consumer world healthy competition is a primary catalyst for success and innovation. In a perfect scenario, this format would encourage a symbiotic relationship amongst the designers, but in fact, they are not getting the recognition they deserve.
The final night, I witnessed designers Jay Nicolas Sario, Cardi Wrap, Helen Sharp, Bryce Black, and Michael Costello on the black solar panel runway. Mr. Costello was by far the most talented designer of the evening, and prior to his runway showing of a cohesive 30-look collection, I was pleased to have a conversation with him backstage. His resort collection offers women “effortless chic”, and his strengths lie in draping and silhouette.
While independent labels struggle to grasp the public’s attention, the majority of the press has originated from the cable television show Project Runway, as Portland has produced three of the past four winners. Speaking to Executive Producer Prasenjit Tito Chowdhury backstage, it occurred to me that his knowledge surrounding the fashion industry is largely insufficient. There are two reciprocal goals that must be achieved: to successfully bolster the regional fashion industry and to gain national and international media coverage. If the format of PFW is not revised neither of these goals will come into fruition, Portland’s respect amongst the fashion industry will not be elevated and designers will be done a severe disservice. The Rose City is home to several very talented designers and artists, and it is my sincere hope that evolution will occur.
Elizabeth Katharine James
